Nordyne evap coils leaking - repair or get new system?

Questions about repairs and parts for Nordyne furnaces, air conditioners and heat pumps for manufactured homes including Intertherm, Mac and Miller brands. Click here for Nordyne parts.

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diygirl
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:13 pm

I'm having the exact same problem as this post: profile.php?mode=activate&u=5474&act_key=a3ba5b441

My system is a Nordyne, model E2EB 017HA. I'm not sure if we should try to fix it or get a whole new system (which will ALL be outdoors - no indoors stuff like we have now). My house is a 1999 Palm Harbor, so the unit is exactly 10 years old (we moved in 8/99). It has leaked so much that my floor has a "dip" in it! I know my subfloor will need to be replaced. Also, part of the wall (starting at the floor) is also wet. When I take the cover off of the bottom of the indoor unit, it does not leak. WHen it's on, I'll have water standing in there 1/4 - 1/2" deep.

Someone hubby and I know said that he will install a new Goodman unit for $3500. This includes everything (unit, labor, etc.) This guy does ac work for a living. I've read some not so nice things about Goodman, but I also know that we'd never be able to afford a Trane or Carrier, etc. I kinda feel like I'm stuck.

Anyway, we've cleaned the coils, and made sure that the drain line isn't stopped up. I don't know what the problem is, but I'd love to hear your suggestions.

What size unit do you recommend for a house that's just shy of 2200 sq. ft.?

Also, this is a little off-topic, but when I get my subfloor replaced, I'm obviously going to file a claim with my homeowners insurance. What I'm worried about is the fact that some of the subfloor that needs to be replaced is underneath my kitchen cabinets. Anyone have any idea if insurance companies pay for that? Pay for flooring (linolium, laminate, etc.)?

And oh yeah, when I leave the bottom cover off, the house doesn't seem to cool. So while it doesn't leak w/the cover off, it doesn't cool, so I have to put the cover on to cool the house. Then it leaks like CRAZY.
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Robert
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,


With bottom door removed, you are bypassing the coil, thus no cooling.


With no cooling there is no condensation and no water leakage.


That also places heavier load of air on motor and will burn it up.


So, keep door on and if leaking, a/c off.


Do you have a trap in the drain line near coil, anywhere in the line or at the end ?


If pan is metal, may be rusted through.


If plastic, may be cracked.



May need an hvac tech to determine what is wrong.


Has it always done this or just recently started ?



As for coverages by insurance, not sure, will have to ask them about that.


I corrected your first post with model number and deleted the 2nd post.



Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
diygirl
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:13 pm

Thanks for your response, Robert.

What would a "trap" look like?

The pan is plastic, so it could be cracked.

Apparently, it's been doing this for awhile b/c my floor is sagging. I recently took off the strips of stuff on my kitchen walls (going to fill them in, paint, etc), and noticed the wetness.

I'd really like to just get an entirely new unit and get that thing out of my house. I could use that area as a pantry (which I'm in dire need of).

When we moved in back in August of '99, our utility bills were around $130/month, and sometimes they were lower than that. Now, my utility bills are $260 and up. I know the cost of energy hasn't doubled. My inlaws are still paying around the same amount, maybe a little more, but not DOUBLE what they used to pay. We're with the same electric company too. I'm wondering if my unit just isn't as efficient as it used to be.
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,


A trap looks like a sideways S ( \/\ ) . You can buy them or make one from 5 90* ells and a few pieces or short cpvc pipe.


I love packaged units (all outside) and suggest them often.


Would need an energy use audit done to see where a newer unit may improve on bill.


Having a packaged unit definitely takes away the overflow a-coil drain pan worry, which is always there otherwise.


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
diygirl
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:13 pm

We do have a trap. I asked hubby about it.

I turned the unit on today. Funny thing - the water didn't drain to the front of the pan. I turned it off after a few minutes, then looked again. Suddenly, all the water comes up to the front of drain pan. So then I turned it back on, and ran back over there and looked. Lo and behold, the water at the front of the drain pan went BACK INSIDE, where it came from! What would cause that?
diygirl
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:13 pm

Also, what size is my system? I'm not sure, but I THINK it's a 4ton. Is that right? Can you tell by the model # I gave?
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

The condensation runs down the sides of the coil into the side troughs and flows toward front of pan from there.


When unit is running water will be flowing out drainline and not much in pan.


When unit is off, there will be slight amount in front of pan.


IF filter, blower motor/wheel, a-coil are all clean, drainline clear and trap in place, check pan for crack or rust through leakage.


If that and all others are ok, then will need an hvac tech to see about the airflow through coil and determine problem.



Will need outside condenser or indoor a-coil model number to know size of a/c .




Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,


After reading your post again, IF you saw the water actually flowing back in under the coils, then it is being pulled there by blower motor.


Where is the trap in the drain line ? Is there any type open air pipe/riser in the drain line like a vent pipe ?


Everything has to be just right on an electric furnace with a/c coil on top for the water to drain down pipe and not overflow into unit and duct.



IF that is happening, I would get an hvac tech with mobile home hvac knowledge to consult with on it in person.



Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
diygirl
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:13 pm

I think we're just going to replace the entire thing and move it outside. We had someone come out today and they will be faxing quotes to me on monday. We're getting more estimates next week. The unit is 10 years old, and I don't want to put much money into it. Plus, getting a new unit (packaged heat pump) will give me a much needed pantry, along with no more worries about this situation happening again.
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Robert
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

As stated in one of my previous replies, you have my vote on that decision.


Love them and have advised/suggested them for many years.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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