]Hello everyone, I've been reading the threads on roof overs (as roof replacement isn't easy / standard roofs are heavy). This project is underway now.
I have a 79 14x70 (given to me). In place on my property on blocking to avoid real estate taxes. Partially gutted by me. Roof is in rough shape and flat inside and I want a cathedral ceiling (current ceilings are 93 inches - sunken living room are higher). Location is Zone 6. I own a backhoe and skid steer w/ aux hydraulics. I will doing much of the work my self with some portions subbed. I own the tools I need to do this already. I will retire here for low overhead when finished.
Like many, I figured the weight of a new standard roof for zone 6 (removing old), Yup, too heavy for the frame. Not Safe.
I'm going to remove the old roof and add an additional 2x4 to the 1x cap plate.Then install trusses (24" oc) that will never see snow load / Mother nature. These trusses will hold the ceiling, Insulation and 7/16 OSB.
Interior portion of theses trusses will be a 3/12 pitch for about a 20" pitched ceiling. Note: all trusses will be professional designed and built.
I will build a roof over as well to handle the outdoor elements & snow. The roof over will include a modest entryway, a 4 ft hallway on the outside of the mobile home removing the hallway from the interior. on the other side of the mobile home it will include a small privacy deck off my bedroom. These trusses will be above the mobile home trusses with a steeper pitch.
The roof over (entry, hallway and privacy deck) will not be directly attached to the mobile home, but independent. When finished the mobile home could be moved out from under the roof over.Like a large RV port.
QUESTION: I could use some advice on the sealing of the two structures (roof over hallway and Mobile home itself). Where to purchase and best practice.
The roof over tresses will have a 40lb snowload. Shingle roof. I'm trying to figure out how large of timbers I need and post spacing. Has anyone here done this and any suggestions (besides getting an architect to figure out the post and beam dimensions.
QUESTION: can plumbing cross the heat duct to the other side without issue? In this mobile home all plumbing is on one side.
I look forward to your comments. If interest I could take pics if that is of interest to the members here. I've tried to include details that might be asked.
Thank you
Roof replacement and roof over project - combined
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
I will tell you now to get with your codes officer. It is much easier to get his input BEFORE you start, than have him tell you what changes you have to make when you are done. He may be fine with what you are doing and tell you to have fun or he may tell you what you need to change, but make no mistake he has the final say.
I do like the free standing style over an attached roof over on a home that old. About the only way to seal it together will be some type of foam rubber. In the cold the home WILL move some when the ground freezes and thaws. the only way around it will be to put the home on below frostline footers or piers. then use below frost line for the new roof.
plumbing can go over the heat duct, but I would make sure it is attached to the joist.
Greg
I do like the free standing style over an attached roof over on a home that old. About the only way to seal it together will be some type of foam rubber. In the cold the home WILL move some when the ground freezes and thaws. the only way around it will be to put the home on below frostline footers or piers. then use below frost line for the new roof.
plumbing can go over the heat duct, but I would make sure it is attached to the joist.
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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