Hello,
My Intertherm FEH-015HA-03 stays rather warm above the unit, even after not running for several hours. "Rather warm", but doesn't seem like it's hot enough for one of the elements to be ON. Is there anything else in there that might make heat even when thermostat is off and blower not running?
I know I should just meter the circuitry, but I have emphysema and that bent-over, low-level work is a real bear.<g> If nobody suggests something else, I'll order a new sequencer, but hate to order one if it might be something else.
Thanks,
DaveO
PS- Sorry about posting in the other thread originally.
Intertherm FEH-015HA-03 "warm" even when not runni
Hi Dave,
Disconnect blower wiring, remove screws from sides of blower housing flanges and slide the housing out.
Then you can look down inside on elements and see if any are energized.
If so, see if any are broken or have simply fallen down touching other element or the frame.
Thanks,
Robert
Disconnect blower wiring, remove screws from sides of blower housing flanges and slide the housing out.
Then you can look down inside on elements and see if any are energized.
If so, see if any are broken or have simply fallen down touching other element or the frame.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Hello, Robert,
What a NEAT idea! I am SO impressed, and borrowing from your sig line below, "Humbly Grateful". But confused, too. The reason the "always warm" is not hot enough for a sequencer stuck ON for one of the elements, but the RIGHT HALF of the top element is coming on for about 9.5 seconds, then OFF for about 1 minute 20 secs., and repeating. Studying the wiring diagram, I see no logical way for this to be happening.<g> Note: 30+ years in electronics maintenance as a TV studio "engineer", and I never saw anything like this.<g> Why and how "half" of the element? Nothing looks "broken" or out of place. It looks like some DMM work is in order, if you'll suggest what to check with the meter (that "half the element" has me stumped).
Thanks --
DaveO
What a NEAT idea! I am SO impressed, and borrowing from your sig line below, "Humbly Grateful". But confused, too. The reason the "always warm" is not hot enough for a sequencer stuck ON for one of the elements, but the RIGHT HALF of the top element is coming on for about 9.5 seconds, then OFF for about 1 minute 20 secs., and repeating. Studying the wiring diagram, I see no logical way for this to be happening.<g> Note: 30+ years in electronics maintenance as a TV studio "engineer", and I never saw anything like this.<g> Why and how "half" of the element? Nothing looks "broken" or out of place. It looks like some DMM work is in order, if you'll suggest what to check with the meter (that "half the element" has me stumped).
Thanks --
DaveO
Hi Dave,
End terminals of the effected coil, one meter lead on each and test for 240vac.
Then test each end to ground for 120vac.
You could disconnect end wires and remove the drawer plate with effected coil and inspect closely.
Or, if you have digital camera, take pics as close as possible, email them to yourself , enlarge and have real close look from your recliner.
Thanks,
Robert
End terminals of the effected coil, one meter lead on each and test for 240vac.
Then test each end to ground for 120vac.
You could disconnect end wires and remove the drawer plate with effected coil and inspect closely.
Or, if you have digital camera, take pics as close as possible, email them to yourself , enlarge and have real close look from your recliner.
Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Hi again, Robert,
Sorry about the delay in replying on this project, had a couple of days of breathing poorly. Thanks to your "gentle encouragement", I did the voltage checks and found interesting results. With furnace powered but NOT running, element 1 had 0 vAC across it for about 80 secs, then 120 vAC for about 8 - 9 secs. Right end to ground was 0 volts for 80 secs, and 120 volts for 9 secs. LEFT end to ground was 0 volts for 80 secs, and *160* volts for 9 secs. (What's THAT all about??)
Element 2 was dead 0 volts, all the time, end-to-end or either end to ground.
With power off and disconnect pulled, and wires removed from left end of elements 1 and 2 -- Resistance readings too STRANGE to make any sense of ! Time to bite the bullet and pull out that plate with elements 1 and 2 on it, since you suggested that and didn't include any heavy-duty precautions.<g> Boy, you sure have to "hold your tongue right" to get that sucker in and out.<g>
BINGO !! Middle of element 1 shorted to the "guide-rod" that runs from front to back. Got it loose, eased it upward a bit and evened out the spacing between coils, and got everything back together, and it's working fine now.
Many thanks for your guidance, and since I don't need to order anything, I feel a tad guilty. Does your site have a "donations" form somewhere?
Best Regards,
DaveO
Bedford VA
Sorry about the delay in replying on this project, had a couple of days of breathing poorly. Thanks to your "gentle encouragement", I did the voltage checks and found interesting results. With furnace powered but NOT running, element 1 had 0 vAC across it for about 80 secs, then 120 vAC for about 8 - 9 secs. Right end to ground was 0 volts for 80 secs, and 120 volts for 9 secs. LEFT end to ground was 0 volts for 80 secs, and *160* volts for 9 secs. (What's THAT all about??)
Element 2 was dead 0 volts, all the time, end-to-end or either end to ground.
With power off and disconnect pulled, and wires removed from left end of elements 1 and 2 -- Resistance readings too STRANGE to make any sense of ! Time to bite the bullet and pull out that plate with elements 1 and 2 on it, since you suggested that and didn't include any heavy-duty precautions.<g> Boy, you sure have to "hold your tongue right" to get that sucker in and out.<g>
BINGO !! Middle of element 1 shorted to the "guide-rod" that runs from front to back. Got it loose, eased it upward a bit and evened out the spacing between coils, and got everything back together, and it's working fine now.
Many thanks for your guidance, and since I don't need to order anything, I feel a tad guilty. Does your site have a "donations" form somewhere?
Best Regards,
DaveO
Bedford VA
Hi Dave,
Sorry to hear about health problems, know all too well about that.
Hope things are better somewhat now. Matter of fact, I was away since Friday with health issues myself.
Just returned to my office today.
Here's what I use for advanced help and when someone only wants help and plan to buy locally.
I have used it in the past when people ask about donating under same type situation.
http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/Order4b.html
You're very welcome, happy to help and glad all is ok again.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Sorry to hear about health problems, know all too well about that.
Hope things are better somewhat now. Matter of fact, I was away since Friday with health issues myself.
Just returned to my office today.
Here's what I use for advanced help and when someone only wants help and plan to buy locally.
I have used it in the past when people ask about donating under same type situation.
http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/Order4b.html
You're very welcome, happy to help and glad all is ok again.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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