Nordyne/Intertherm Model 10PJ

[tjgriggs]

I am running on emergency heat. When in normal heat pump mode I hear a buzz then nothing but cool air. Is this possibly the run cap. If it is wher is the run cap located inside or outside. I know how to test and have checked the outside unit but see no wiring to match the wiring diagram or schematic. The diagram shows a 3 wire connection and the only cap I can find in outside unit is a 4 wire connection. So can someone tell me where the run cap is located and if it is actually a 4 wire connection.
Thanks
Tim

[Robert]

Hi Tim,

Where is buzz coming from ? Is outside fan motor and compressor BOTH running ?


Thanks,
Robert

[tjgriggs]

Robert,
The outside fan comes on and the hum or buzzing sound is outside. I think maybe the buzz is the start cap and that the compressor is not running. I think that I might be low on puron.
Thanks
Tim

[Robert]

Hi Tim,

Buzz may be compressor trying to start or could be the contactor.

It won't be low on refrigerant unless it has a leak. You need to know for sure if compressor is running.


Thanks,
Robert

[tjgriggs]

I know for sure that the compressor is not running. The buzz only last for a few seconds and stops. then the inside fan will run for hours with out stopping inthe mean time there is no heat. The outside fan also runs until I switch to emg heat.

[Robert]

Hi Tim,

Remove controls panel cover and try to pinpoint source of buzz.


Thanks,
Robert

[tjgriggs]

Robert,
Removed panels and cannot find where the buzz is coming from. The buzzing stops before I can get back outside to listen for it. It is diffcult for me to do since I am alone and have no one to help me. Could you tell me where the contactor might be located?
Thanks Tim

[Robert]

Hi Tim,

Follow wires/conduit from home up to condensing unit where they go into unit.

Remove cover panel to reveal the controls where the wires go.


The contactor is there with the run capacitor(s).


Then, if you have a wall disconnect near the unit, pull the disconnect plug or flip the breaker.

Then go inside and set t-stat to cool-auto-65.

Go back to unit, flip breaker or push in disconnet plug and listen for buzz.


Thanks,
Robert

[tjgriggs]

Hi Robert,
I appreciate all your help. I still cannot determine the location of the buzzing. I am going to have to resort to the parts swap method. I will start with the compressor contactor and move on from. Once again I wish to thank you for all your help and to thank you for your patience.
Tim

[Robert]

Hi Tim,

What you describe could also be the compressor buzzing when it attempts to start. Due to this and the fact that parts changing hunting a problem can get real expensive, it would be best to call an hvac tech to diagnose problem.

IF it is the compressor, you could be wasting money to buy parts for it.


Thanks,
Robert

[tjgriggs]

Hi Robert,
Thanks for the info. I will have to wait awhile before I can afford a HVAC tech. I am on disability and it will take quite awhile before I can get the funds together to have a tech visit and afford a compressor.
Thanks
Tim

[Robert]

Hi Tim,

In most cases, it is best to replace the condensing unit instead of the compressor due to cost for compressor replacement.

You could replace the contactor to see if it helps as you will have to replace it anyway if it is the compressor.


Thanks,
Robert