removing old wood stove and chimney

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teressa
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Joined: Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:22 pm

Hi, I had a neighbor help me remove an old wood stove that I havent used since I purchased my mobile home. It is an old home but has been well maintained. when we pulled the old stove out from the wall/chimney, the bricks around it started to crumble and there is a big hole now in the base of the chimney. should I go ahead and remove the chimney? it goes thru the ceiling and into an attic space I dont have access to. do i just start removing bricks or do I start on the roof? how do I gain access to the part of the chimney in the ceiling? I was going to shore up the chimney and leave it be as I dont have the funds to call an expert. but i am worried about it falling down on its own. what about the hole it will leave in the roof when it does get removed? any advice would be appreciated.
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Greg
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Hi & welcome. Are you saying that you have a brick chimney? I can say with all honesty that I have never heard of or seen one in a Mobile home.

The repair to close the holes in the roof & ceiling depend on the type of material. if you have a metal roof you can usually do a patch job with new metal. Shingle roofs require a more complex job, like adding plywood underlay, then add into the existing shingles to seal the outside.

The ceiling could be easier depending on the material and how you want it to look. you could do something as simple as a patch with the edges trimmed with molding or replace the whole ceiling. Don't forget to add insulation to the hole before you seal it up.

I am sure others will have more ideas for you as well. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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JD
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I would bet there is a round class-B pipe inside the brick. The brick may even be the thin facade brick facings like Z-Brick. Removal should be straight forward. there should be a metal plate with the round hole in it at the ceiling level.

This and the flue/stack on the roof can be removed and the holes patched. But if the flue is solid and doesn't move around when pushed, and the roof jack is well sealed and shows no signs of possible leaks now or in the near future, it may be best to leave it on the roof. This jack may have a better chance of not leaking than a patch. You can still insulate the hole from the ceiling side. Then when you do roof maintenance or reroof, you can address the flue and jack.

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JD
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Juice
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Apr 21, 2009 3:51 pm

Is it real brick? I have never seen a masonry chimney on a MH before. I don't have time to get one of my code books but I am 95% sure that if you do have a real masonry chimney it does not meet HUD code for a wood burning chimney in a MH.

If the stove vent is in the back and went through a wall then it does not meet HUD.

Either way, based on how you described the chimney, it is bad and should never have been used. I would recommend taking it all down if you can.

B-vent is a GAS ONLY pipe. It should never be used as anything but a gas vent.
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JD
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My bad on the Class-B pipe info. What Juice said sounds right to me. I have only dealt with 2 wood burning stoves in 23 years of mobile home repair. Both were roof jobs. Both reused the existing stacks. I have seen other wood stoves in homes, but they were not involved in my repairs.

Here in Fresno, our coldest month December, has an average high temp of 54 and average low of 45 degrees historically. We certainly get some very cold days too, but not many. Very few wood burners in my area. Even fewer now that we have so many "No Burn" days in the winter.

JD
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Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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