I just bought a 1970 12x65 in Flagstaff Arizona. It has T1011 for skirting which is in bad shape and the inspector says that wood should not contact the ground.
Vinyl seems the cheapest but many say that it will crack after a few years and one friend says that critters will find their way in.
My installer likes Hardieboard but according to the manufacturer it should not be placed within 6 inches of grade. So how can that work? Also he wants to make a frame from wood and that will invite termites in.
My installer also likes K-Rock. It is expensive and I wonder if it has the same issues as vinyl. Also, he wants to make a frame from wood and again, I think that will invite termites in.
Block is great, but way too expensive.
I do see a reference to steel. My installer says he never uses it. Also it seems to have the wood frame issue.
What is not too expensive, will keep out critters and will last for a while?
Best skirting material?
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Hi dino
I like Parkside Vinyl Skirting. I buy it from Homedepot and Lowes. I use moth balls to discourage the critters.
Harry
I like Parkside Vinyl Skirting. I buy it from Homedepot and Lowes. I use moth balls to discourage the critters.
Harry
Aside from the roof leak, soft floors, rats, mice and bursted plumbing ........ how do you like it?
Hi dino
There is a MH park near me that uses only stacked block on all MHs with wire behind it.
We need lots of ventilation in my area....and freezing weather is not a problem here.
![Image](http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc293/hryderiii/misc014.jpg)
Harry
There is a MH park near me that uses only stacked block on all MHs with wire behind it.
We need lots of ventilation in my area....and freezing weather is not a problem here.
![Image](http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc293/hryderiii/misc014.jpg)
Harry
Aside from the roof leak, soft floors, rats, mice and bursted plumbing ........ how do you like it?
Vinyl is my skirting choice for a few reasons. I do not like adding wood framing under the rim or floor joists. This can damage your skirting and home, especially in areas with frost heave or tree roots. The top track of the vinyl skirting allows a lot of movement. Critters can dig under wood framed skirting as easily as vinyl skirting. I usually install vinyl skirting onto a pressure treated 2x4 laid flat. I attach it to the ground with 12" spikes, available at most home stores. I make sure the dirt is flat under the 2x4 by digging out humps, usually with a hammer, or just screet the dirt smooth with the 2x4. A nice tip here is to put your 4' or bigger level against the wall on edge, and line up the 2x4 on that outside edge of the level. This will leave room for your ground channel and a nice lip or reveal of the 2x4 in front of the ground channel. The lip looks nice and hides non-straight edges of the 2x4 and small amounts of error. I also will use a 1" spade bit to dig a 1/4" deep hole, and then a 3/8" bit in the center of that hole to pre-drill and countersink the big spikes. The spade bit leaves a pilot hole for the 3/8" bit. Countersinking the spikes allows the ground channel to lay completely flat on the 2x4. I put the spikes approx 2' o.c. Pressure treated wood is made and approved for ground contact.
All siding materials has that 6" from the ground rule, but that just doesn't work with skirting, unless you are on concrete. So all Hardi-Panel and hardboard skirting and it's framing ends up very close to the ground. Using all pressure treated wood for framing and installing the board with the lip on it should help deter termites. The mud seal (board with the lip) keeps the siding from direct ground contact. This board also helps dirt and decorative rocks from caving in the skirting also.
JMO
JD
All siding materials has that 6" from the ground rule, but that just doesn't work with skirting, unless you are on concrete. So all Hardi-Panel and hardboard skirting and it's framing ends up very close to the ground. Using all pressure treated wood for framing and installing the board with the lip on it should help deter termites. The mud seal (board with the lip) keeps the siding from direct ground contact. This board also helps dirt and decorative rocks from caving in the skirting also.
JMO
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Jim have you used the concrete board or seen it used. I have been considering it for a home I am doing a reno on and am concerned most about frost heave. Any suggestions as to the best method for installation?Jim from Canada wrote:concrete board
An individual must enforce his own meaning in life and rise above the perceived conformity of the masses. (Anton LaVey)
Hi & welcome. I personally prefer steel. It's critter AND Weedeater proof. See "a better skirting idea" in the articles section of the site. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
- Jim from Canada
- Posts: 551
- Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am
Greg S wrote:Jim have you used the concrete board or seen it used. I have been considering it for a home I am doing a reno on and am concerned most about frost heave. Any suggestions as to the best method for installation?Jim from Canada wrote:concrete board
Just seen it used and liked the idea. Dig a trench around perimeter about a foot deep, put in 1/4" galv. screening to bottom (critter proofing). 6" of 3/4 crush gravel. Build frame from gravel to bottom of home with PT wood (remembering vent/access holes), attach screening (that you put in earlier) to bottom plate. Cover in concrete board. Finish as you like, fill remainder of trench with more 3/4 gravel.
Actually, the ultimate would be poured concrete on the gravel and build the framing on top of that, but that is getting pricey. I think someone here posted it this way once and went to the extreme of putting frostline footers and piers below the concrete base. All reinforced with re bar. Excellent job!!!!
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