Anchoring Relocated MH Help

[R Hoeffner]

We purchased a 1999 Fleetwood triple wide repo and had it relocated. Unfortunately, the mover we hired didn't finish the job and now we are left with a MH that has not been anchored. The double wide part is 28 x 54 and the third piece is 14 x 30.

From what we are reading, the anchors should have been installed prior to the house placement, but since they weren't we are now looking for ways that we can do this ourselves.

The home is located on a ranch in New Mexico (Wind Zone 2) with rocky soil conditions. We are looking at various types of anchor systems. We purchased Mark's book, but Helix seems to be the only thing he covers, which I don't think will work for the rocky soil. We are unsure how to get the rock anchors driven into the hard soil underneath the house. We've only seen pictures of these anchors and have no real working knowledge of how they work or how they are installed.

This is our first MH and it is used as a vacation home some 300 miles away from us. Therefore, we usually only have a couple of days at a time to work on the house - 1 or 2 times a month.

We found another system online that might work for us, XI2. This system looks very doable for us but we need to know if Is it a viable alternative to driving the anchors into the ground? We are unclear if it can in fact be used as an alternative or if that system is only used in conjunction with other anchor systems. Any and all ideas / comments / suggestions appreciated.

[Greg]

Hi & welcome. Since this may become a code issue I would contact the code officer for your area and get his opinion. He would have the final say (if codes are involved) and it is much easier to work from the start rather than install a type he would not approve and have to redo the system.

Greg

[JD]

I would also call the x12 people for some clarity. The link below is to their install instructions and requirements. It states that it is IBC 2006, 90 mph. Exposure C Wind Loads, which I think will work in your area. But reading through the instructions, they mention concrete pads a couple of times, but it almost sounds like an option and is not clearly a requirement. They may be leaving the pad requirement up to local specific code. Being a triple wide, you may need 4 units and holes. Here's the link

http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/d988.pdf

[R Hoeffner]

Thank you both for your replies.

There are no codes involved. This is on a ranch, literally in the middle of no-where, according to the land codes, there are no codes.

The odd thing is, our mover brought out 6 Helix anchors and 2 galvanized pads that go with the XI2 system - but nothing else. He very well knew the house required a rock anchor system, so we have no clue what he had in mind. Our mover is located in the same town we are, so he is also 300 miles from the job...so after 6 trips up already without finishing, there is no way he is going back - and to be honest, we don't want him back.

I guess we are confused as to whether the house needs traditional rock anchors, or if the XI2 system is a complete alternative, or do they work in conjunction with one another. We are not looking forward to being under that house for several days pounding stakes into the ground for the rock anchors.

I think the concrete pads are an alternative to the galvanized pads - can use either from what I have read so far. We have access to a couple of jacks and realize that we would need 4 of the XI2 systems, based on instructions. Can you tell me if the XI2 system is a stand alone or must be used in conjunction with the traditional type anchors?

I'll call the company Monday, just trying to get a handle on what I'm talking about before I call. Thanks again.

[DaveyB]

Having made my first foray under my home today and run into these odd diagonal braces, I started doing some digging into them, internet style. I found there is a massive amount of information on tie-downs for manufactured homes, and some interesting twists.

First off, there is a (often misunderstood, according to sources) permanent foundation which does not require tie-downs since the home is permanently fixed to the piers, which are themselves generally reinforced concrete sitting on prepared foundations extending down to the frost layer.

For homes which are to retain their mobility, there are tie-downs which cover many different types, ranging from the already mentioned single and double helix, to the Xi2 system. The latter system is designed specifically for certain types of soil, mainly the rocky or high gravel soils where drainage is better. The way I read it, concrete pads are intended for use where some excavation is possible in order to lay a concrete footing, while the galvanized pads are more for a rocky substrate where excavation would require the use of explosives! My interpretation, I could be wrong

Since there are no codes to apply, it really comes down to your comfort level as to how much effort you want to put into securing the home. You could pass entirely on the tie downs and trust to luck that nothing will happen, or go to the other extreme, move the home and lay in solid foundations and anchors. Given that, as you say, it is a rocky terrain, it will probably be very expensive just to excavate to any real depth to get the kind of security that the "experts" recommend.

First, you may want to consider the location of your home - is it nestled in a valley or stuck out on a windswept hillside? What are the year round weather conditions of the site, with regards to wind speeds and seismic activity? In short, what are the possibilities that mother nature may try to push the home off its footings?

From some of the literature I found, the average furnished and occupied manufactured home exerts a ground pressure of 40-80 lbs/sq ft (depending on contents and snow coverage). Compare this to the 67+ ton Abrams battle tank which exerts a mere 13.5 lbs/sq ft. Now the Xi2 system starts to make sense, where the tremendous weight exerted on that galvanized plate is used to offset the horizontal force from the opposite side of the structure. Think of a bride trying to walk down the aisle when all the bridesmaids are standing on her train! On the other hand, a battle tank is somewhat streamlined, whereas a manufactured home is a large, slab sided sail, so there are extra forces in play.

In your case, since this is a triple-wide, those forces are greatly reduced. I was a kid in the UK when they first completed the Severn bridge - a mile and a half of suspension bridge crossing from Wales into England. During the winter storms, it was common for high sided semi trucks to be blown over (onto their sides) by high winds. It was discovered that the answer was to send semis over the bridge in pairs, staying side by side. The wind pressure on one side of one semi was not sufficient to blow it over, it needed the vaccuum on the other side to help suck it over. By having two vehicles, one had the effect of pressure, the other had the effect of the suction, but neither received enough force to topple them. With the triple wide, you have pressure on one side, vaccuum on the other, and a 3rd unit in the middle that gets neither, so you have considerable stability already built in.

Without knowing the answers to the questions above (about the windswept hillside, etc.), I couldn't really make a firm recommendation, but my suggestion would be to go with the galvanized plate solution, and cross the securing points between the 3 units so that each protects its neighbor, as well as "by the book" under each of the outer units.

I hope that is of some help to you!

DaveyB

[R Hoeffner]

Absolutely - that was great help! We know understand why the middle section seemed to be ignored when figuring out where to put the anchors.

The house will never ever be moved again - at least by me. It was super expensive to get moved, almost more than I paid for the house. So what ever anchors we use, will be with the house sitting where it is :O

As far as the weather conditions...it seems to be changing as of late. It never used to be windy, to the point the ranchers will windmills were singing the blues. However, this year has been extremely windy. The house has been weathering the wind quite well as it has been sitting there for a couple of months now with no anchors yet. Some of the shims have come out, but I don't think the house has moved around much at all.

I think we have decided to do a combination of anchors....4 xi2's - one in each corner and several of the rock anchors around the rest of the house. It seems we are in Wind Zone 2, so we are thinking the xi2 might not be quite enough, but when coupled with the rock anchors, we should be good. I think we have access to an air hammer, which will help a lot!

The soil is odd to say the least. There are areas that are hard but diggable, then there are areas where it is solid rock. Scraping off the area where the house was to sit was painstakingly hard when dealing with the huge rocks that would pop up when the dozer was pushing the dirt around. In putting in the water line, some of the trench had to be literally chiseled and picked out...just depends on where you go digging.

Anyway, your examples helped us tremendously to understand what we are up against and what we need to do to secure it. Thank you for everyone's input! Next question will be about skirting.

[Greg]

If you are into rock, you may want to think about an air powered rock drill. It's about the size of a small jack hammer with bits that will drill rock rather than break them. Many rental housed have them.

Greg

[joedirt63]

hello if the house isn't going to be moved any more why not just build up a perimiter foundation? use that as anchor similar to a stick house, good and solid, no floor bowing , good support of the rim joists and outer walls and roof. no critters under your house, and no skirting to get blown away broken