Garden Tub

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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RickW
Posts: 64
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 7:49 pm
Location: NW PA

I'm going to replace my 48" x 60" garden tub with a new tub same size. Is the drainage hard to get apart? Can't seem to find a nice surround for this size except for the very thin plastic. Any suggestions on this? Also want to add a longer vanity sink but not sure if the half wall on the side of my sink is a weight bearing wall. My buddy told me the weight on a mobile home is on the outside edges. Thanks for any help.
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Rick, drain lines usually are glued except at the trap. I would bet that the drains will not line up so you will most likely need to move things around some.

In a single wide home the outside walls are always load bearing and the inside walls can usually be totally removed. The exception is when an inside wall is at a point where the ceiling height changes, that wall may or may not be load bearing.

If you are changing the vanity, the wall construction would have nothing to do with it. Vanities are free standing.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
bobfather99
Posts: 195
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2009 2:09 am
Location: Indiana

Id always replace the P-trap when replacing a tub, along with anything else drainage-wise that looks iffy. You dont want yet another "fun" trip under the home looking for leaks. I found some REALLY bad repairs downstream from my tub when I remodeled.
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JD
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As far as general rules on weight bearing walls in a mobile home go, I would also consider the first wall past the great room area, usually at the end of the kitchen, a load bearing or at least a "don't remove or modify" wall. I believe there is a hud code limiting the free span of any space to 30'.
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
RickW
Posts: 64
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 7:49 pm
Location: NW PA

The reason I mentioned the walls is because next to my toilet is a half wall that has part of the drain hidden in it and then the vanity is next and then another wall at the end of the vanity. This is the wall I want to take down. So we can put in a double sink vanity. Just wanted to make sure this wall was ok to take down. My other concern is electricity. I hope there aren't any lines going through that wall. I don't believe there is. I did forget to mention that we live in a single wide home.
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

I'm confused. You say "half wall" which to me is a wall only a few feet high and doesn't go to the ceiling. So a half wall would not be load bearing.

My home has little 12x12 or so plywood squares screwed on under the trailer that are access places for the traps. The drain to the tub is usually just screwed on.
RickW
Posts: 64
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 7:49 pm
Location: NW PA

When I say half walls I mean it doesn't go across the whole room. The walls are actually used as the sides of the vanity. I'm not too good at explaining things.
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

I see, I have those also. They shouldn't be load bearing. I redid my bathroom and took the wall out and it was just held in the top with two 4" screws losely. There shouldn't be any wires in that wall unless there is an outlet or switch in that wall. But you did say there was part of the drain line in this wall? If so it might be a vent line that goes up to the ceiling and vents out the roof. A picture or two always helps get better answers.
RickW
Posts: 64
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 7:49 pm
Location: NW PA

The drain line is in the wall that is on the right of the vanity next to the toilet. The wall I want to take down is on the left of the vanity. Thanks for your input.
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