Kitchen/bathroom plumbing issue

[Jennifer]

Hello! Brand new member with serious (or maybe not so serious) plumbing problem.

I have a single wide mh with 2 bathrooms at either end of home and 3 bedrooms. It is a 1980s era home and unfortunately I don't have much info on it. We have lived in the home for 2 years and have had some problems with one of the bathrooms off and on since we moved in. The tub drained slowly at times so I would plunge, use chemical drain cleaner and a plastic zip thing to clean hair out of the drain periodically. I don't think the tub is the problem however, I believe it's the kitchen sink.

So here's what's going on currently: the kitchen sink, toilet and washer are all draining directly into the bathtub which is not emptying at all. This began about a week ago. The first day the water drained out eventually over 24 hours. Tried to plunge etc... but I think that only made the stoppage worse. I tried plunging the sink and toilet too, tried the hot water and dish soap trick along with baking soda/vinegar, co2 plunger, you name it. Bought a closet auger and went in through toilet but got through no problem. Just picked up a 15' auger but not sure where to stick it yet.

Here's our set up: kitchen sink about 10-12 feet from bathroom, no garbage disposal and lousy drain baskets that I know allow food particles into pipes. Dishwasher in kitchen that also drains into tub and we haven't used recently due to issue. Washer is in hall next to bathroom about 5 ft from tub and toilet. Washer drains fine- just into tub, sink drains fine- into tub, dishwasher- same, toilet- fills up and only drains when plunged and then directly into bathtub. Should mention also that the toilet bowl fills up with same water as tub, I.e. washing machine or sink water, although the water in the toilet will eventually go down on its own- right into the darn bathtub!

I'm a single woman, consider myself a little handy- can change a faucet, set up washer/dryer, can find my fuse box and relight the water heater, but that's the extent of it. I'm super excited to find out how to fix things and have no problem getting dirty. I'm also totally broke right now and can't afford the service call for a plumber to come out and fix something I could probably do myself if I could just figure out how to!

So what I think is that the kitchen drain is causing my problem ultimately (could be totally wrong) from food particles and grease over it's 25 years or so of use. I've looked up how to remove p trap and think I could snake the drain in kitchen. I can't find anything on how to snake a trailer tub if that's where my problem is, since there is no overflow thing to go in through. There is next to nothing on the web that explains repairs on trailers so it was a God-send to find this site and forum! I'm desperate to figure out where my problem really is and how to fix it. I know this isn't a lot of info to go on but I'd sure be eternally grateful to anyone who could give me some direction on where or how to start the plumbing repair!

Oops- one last thing to mention. There is no water shut off inside, only hot water on water heater and I haven't been able to locate the shut off under the home. Also can't figure out what would be the main drain underneath as I understand you can sometimes get into it as well. The other bathroom at opposite end of house is working just fine, sink, toilet and tub drain fine and not into other bathroom. So sorry for the super long post! Hope someone can help

[1987Commodore]

There should be a main drain line underneath the floor, but above the belly wrap. It should run from one end to the other, with a point where it drops through the belly wrap to the septic tank or sewer line. It sounds like one section of the main line is blocked, before it gets to the drop point. You may have to go in from the drop point underneath. Your best bet would be to get a long auger and go through the blocked toilet to try to remove the clog. Try your 15' one from the toilets. Maybe you can find a longer auger at a tool rental place.It will be hard to auger from a sink, as the drains are smaller, with more elbows in the way before you even reach the main drain.
Maybe reading this thread will give you some insight. https://www.mobilehomerepair.com/phpbb/v ... =6&t=10198

[Jennifer]

Hi 1987commodore,

Thanks, I did read that post and just about every other one with drain, water and pipe in the subject line lol. I really appreciate the response and your input! So the problem with going in through the main drain under the home is that I just can't figure out where it is! Good point about it coming from the belly at some point so I will try to look for something like that. We are not on septic but city sewer if that makes any difference.

I keep finding posts referring to a Drain King. I've seen this in the home stores I think called a bladder. Most refer to roof vents too. I don't see any roof vents from where I can look down on the ground and as I understand it many mobiles don't have them, but I could be totally wrong. So the question is- if I can locate the main drain, do I just cut into it and try to run my snake through? Not sure how easy this would be in such a small crawl space, not really a lot of room to move let alone maneuver tools and such. I guess I'm thinking, maybe incorrectly, that my best bet is to try something inside where I have room to move. Am I totally wrong? I just can't really figure out where would be the place to start.

[Jennifer]

Okay, here is a post about the drain thing. Sounds like I could attach to hose and go through kitchen pipe with p trap removed. I still have no idea however, if this is even my real problem. Has anyone used one of these with success, or serious failure? My garden hose does not have good pressure, regardless, seems as though this could cause enough pressure to build up to potentially burst a pipe. Is that possible or am I being overly cautious/paranoid?!

The other question is whether or not I can snake the trailer tub. The only videos and info I have found regarding snaking tubs is for site built homes. Those tubs have an overflow thing though that trailers do not. There is no opening under the faucet to get into with a snake. Any other advice regarding the tub? I'm going to try to get the 15' auger into the toilet without scratching or cracking the porcelain, that's all I need right now is to have to totally replace the throne!

Again, any and all advice is sincerely appreciated!

https://www.mobilehomerepair.com/phpbb/v ... 118#p18759

[1987Commodore]

If you try to use water pressure to clear a clog in the main drain line, all that will happen is sewage will come up out of your tub, toilet, sink and washer with force behind it! The only way this might work is if you can plug each of the problem drains tightly. The pressure will expose any weak links in the drain system. Save yourself a lot of trouble and get a long snake.
You could remove the problem toilet to expose the drain line and work from there. Have a new wax sealing ring available to reinstall the toilet.

[Jennifer]

So does it sound to you like the toilet is the problem? Would the plugged toilet cause everything to back up into the tub and the tub not to drain at all? I think I can get the toilet off, doesn't seem too complicated, just unscrew and lift. Is it really that simple? These are newer toilets although the home is 25 yrs old. I'll be sure to run out and buy a new wax ring first! I have a 15' auger I just got but haven't opened yet. I am going to return it and go for the 25' or woukd the 50' usually be a better bet? im worried any longer than 25' might be unwieldy but that may not make sense to anyone who has used one! I hate saying usually and should or could but clearly no blockage is the same, just looking to pick some far more experienced brains! Thanks!

[1987Commodore]

The toilet itself may not be the problem. The problem is in the main drain line serving that end of the home, at some point after all the affected drains enter it. The toilet drain gives direct access to the main drain line. I would go with the 50' snake. It would be a shame to get the 25' and find it too short.
When you remove the toilet, remember you have to disconnect the water supply also, and water will run out of the toilet trap on to the floor when you lift it.

[ponch37300]

If everything is backing up into the tub then it's almost certain your main line that goes from the trailer to the sewer or septic is plugged up somewhere. Are you on city sewer or your own septic tank? The easiest way to clear this up will be to take the toilet out. The main line should run from the toilet to the sewer and will be a 3 or 4" plastic pipe, most likely PVC or ABS.

To take the toilet off shut the water supply off. There may or may not be a valve on the water line coming from the floor to the toilet. If there isn't a valve there then you will have to find your main shut off which will either be under the house or some place like the water heater closet. And now would be a good time to install a valve on the toilet supply line. I've installed valves on all my fixtures over the last couple years to give easy access to shutting water off. Once the water is shut off try to drain all the water you can from the toilet tank and bowl. You can use an old towel or something for this. The more water you can get out the less mess you will have. Before you pull the toilet make sure the tub is drained, don't want water to run from the tub to the open toilet drain. Also make sure you have a new wax ring, get two they are cheap. They come in different thicknesses so if you aren't sure which one just buy a couple different sizes but unless there is some issues a standard ring should work. Also pick up new bolts and nuts, old bolts are a pain to deal with and new are cheap. Get the ones that snap off so you don't have to cut them. Now loosen the two nuts holding the toilet on. Gently wiggle the toilet to break the wax seal, some can be stuck pretty good. Then lift the toilet out, they can be heavy. You will now have a 3 or 4" hole under the toilet. Use your snake to chase down the clog. I would get the 50 footer so hopefully it will reach the length of the pipe. Do you know the distance from the toilet to where the sewer hook up is? You will need at least that much length. Once you have the clog figured out then put the toilet back on. Set the new wax ring and then new bolts in the flange. Then carefully set the toilet on the bolts and tighten the nuts and washers down. Be careful here. You want them tight enough to squish the wax ring and make a good seal but you if you tighten to much you will crack the toilet. I usually tighten and then gently wiggle it a little and then tighten nuts more. Once the nuts are tight snap off the bolts and put on the little plastic covers. Connect the water and turn on the valve. You will need a pair of channel locks and a crescent wrench most likely.

Hopefully this covers everything, if not feel free to ask more questions.

[Jennifer]

Ok, 1987Commodore, you have answered my questions so that everything finally clicks for me-thank God! I guess I wasn't getting why I would bother with taking the toilet off if I could just go through a sink but that definitely makes sense. Hitting the main drain directly without having to find the clean out under the trailer sounds like the logical choice. I took your advice and just hit menards for a 50' snake.

Ponch37300, thank you so much for the detailed response. We are on city sewer, no clue how far to it but there is actually a manhole cover 5 feet from where I believe my main shut off is underneath. It is in the yard a few feet from the home and I know the park has had people drilling in it or cleaning it out a few times since we've been here. If that's where we need to get to then its probably 20-30' through the pipes from where the toilet is. The toilet is right inside probably 10' from it if I were to measure as I walked out the back door. So I guess, fingers crossed that's what I'm aiming for. Like I said I got a 50' snake that is loose and not in a cylinder but it does have a handle and a corkscrew end so it should work. Might be a little unwieldy, but I couldn't afford the one that I could hook on my drill. I only picked up one wax ring, guess that was dumb but I can run out and get another if this one isn't tall enough. I really should have them on hand anyway in case one leaks. Also didn't consider new screws and bolts. I looked right at 'em and thought why would I need those??

So I'm headed into the bathroom to get things started. Got the shop vac to suck out the tank and tons of rags. I shut off the supply to the tank but still couldn't locate our main so I hope that's good enough. Wish me luck and thanks so much for the info and responses!

If anyone has pix of what their main shut off or any main shut off under the trailer looks like I would appreciate a look! I'm positive the shut off has to be in a five foot radius under my back door but I can't locate the sucker for anything! I've only been able to pull up pix of site built homes and it just doesn't look like anything I've hot going on underneath.

[1987Commodore]

Your shut off would be where your water supply pipe emerges from the ground underneath the home. Since you have a manhole cover close by, it could be under there, and then a short pipe run to the home without a shut off in it. The clog you are looking for is not going to be in the manhole, since one half of your drain system works properly. It will be in the main line in the belly of the home, before the area where both drains come together and drop out the bottom. I know this because one bathroom is working properly. The reason the tub and toilet fill when using the sink, is that they are the lowest drains in the system.

[Jennifer]

I didn't think of that 1987Commodore-the shut off being under the manhole cover or in the yard or something. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place completely. I'm gonna see if I can hit up the park handy man this week to see if he knows where it is and then figure out how to install one in the house maybe by the water heater.

Excellent description of the pipes and the blockage! That makes sense too and I think you're absolutely right about where the clog is.

Another stupid and probably disgusting question. So I just watched a video of a guy clearing a drain and there was solid material in it. He pulled out probably 6 feet of black junk that looked like a disgusting 4 inch thick tree branch (clearly it was not). I understand I will probably know when I hit the blockage because it won't give, how do I know if its solid? Could it be goo that can be penetrated and broken apart to move through the drain? Will I know if it isn't and is a solid mass of crap? Do I pull the snake out and see what I've caught? Kind if like the worst fishing trip of my life? Lol

[1987Commodore]

Yes, it will be something black and stinky for sure. The snake may catch whatever it is and allow you to pull it out. It is possible that it could be sanitary products from the previous occupant. Once you find the clog, you will want to crank the snake, and you will be able to tell how solid it is. The snake can punch through most things, but you want to send as little as possible downstream to potentially cause another clog. I have even seen where idiots have flushed garments! If your park has a handyman, ask him for help. He may even have a snake already. In our park, they don't usually charge us for minor things.

[1987Commodore]

When you feel you have broken through the clog, pull the snake back and forth in that area while rotating to remove as much as possible from the sides of the pipe. When you get everything buttoned up again, run a tubful of HOT water through the drain to help flush it out.

[Jennifer]

Our handyman is great and may very well have a snake etc.. I would have asked him for help but the park manager would have his a** if she found out and she surely would. I'm certain he would have gladly helped me but I wouldn't want to get him in trouble. We routinely get letters about what is our responsibility and anything in the home and before the sewer line is our problem. If she found out I was having a drain issue they would probably call their plumbers to work on the sewer and stick me with the bill.

I've got the bolts off now, supply line shut off and detached, tank and bowl emptied with a rag in the neck just in case. Sucking out as much as I can from the tub right now which didn't occur to me either before- what a mess that would have been! Got a bucket for whatever I can pull out and just to be safe an old surgical mask from a first aid kit with gloves and goggles. I should video this and post it online for some other unfortunate chic to come across when they get into this situation. I really wish there was more info out there for trailers! I don't know what I would have done if I hadn't come across this site and you guys. Even if its essentially the same, I never would have trusted the info for site built houses and their plumbing and drain set ups.

When I get it back together 1987Commodore, would you suggest a squirt of dawn detergent along with the tub of hot water? Should I get some on the stove and pour a stock pot full down the toilet too after?

[1987Commodore]

Just don't pour boiling water down the toilet - you could crack it. Pour the boiling water down the kitchen sink. Dawn wouldn't hurt, but probably won't help either.
It's too bad she is like that. Where we are, I own my home, but rent the lot. The landlord's people have repaired my water lines and belly wrap free of charge. They did charge to install my patio cover. They also do garbage pickup.