Intertherm FEH 015HA-03 Blower will not start

[Ricky.Glenn]

I have an Intertherm FEH 015HA-03 manufactured 31 Oct 1988. The heater was working fine. It had been running for a couple of hours because I was replacing the back door on the mobile home. The heater cut off. I though the temperature on the thermostat had been reached. However, the heater did not turn back on. The blower will not start, in auto or on, in the ac nor heater modes. A clicking noise at the furnace is made when the thermostat makes contact. I am not sure if the heat strips are coming on, or not. Please advise. Thanks

[Robert]

Set t-stat to call for heat and then when blower does not start, spin the blower wheel in direction of rotation.

Let me know if it starts and runs.


Thanks,
Robert

[Ricky.Glenn]

The blower did not start and run when I set t-stat to call for heat and spun the blower wheel in direction of rotation.

[Robert]

Look at your wiring diagram for the two heat speed wires.

One will be always LINE voltage (usually Orange or White).

Then look for the med low or low, whichever yours uses for heat.

Then set t-stat again and after 30 seconds, see if you have 240VAC at the molex plug, wire nuts or whatever the connections are going to those two wires.

Need to see if the motor is getting power.


Thanks,
Robert

[Ricky.Glenn]

Robert

I will check this afternoon. Thanks

[Robert]

You're very welcome, happy to help.


Thanks,
Robert

[Ricky.Glenn]

Robert
I checked the voltages and determined the motor was not getting power. A bit more troubleshooting determined that one of the large fuses was blown. I replaced the fuse and corrected the problem. Thank You

The furnace now heats the home, but obviously needs maintenance. I have owned the home for 17 years and have neglected to properly maintain the furnace. After reading through the blogs I realize I also have a few other problems.

The heating elements seem to cycle on and off without the blower motor coming on when the thermostat is set below room temperature. There also seems to be excess heat inside of the cabinet.

The sequencer has never been replaced. Thus I am going to order and replace the sequencer. I am also going to remove the blower housing to determine if a problem exists with the elements.

While the blower is out, I am going to clean and ,if possible, oil it.

Question: Other than replacing the sequencer and checking the elements, what other recommendations do you have for eliminating the cycling and excessive heat in the cabinet?

I also have a concern regarding the wiring of the thermostat. I am using a non programmable hunter thermostat that requires 2 AA batteries. The system has both RH and RC wires. Instructions to install the thermostat says to remove the jumper if the system has both RH and RC wires. However, without the jumper, the blower will not come on when set to heat and auto. Thus, I installed the jumper.

Questions: Should I be concerned about the jumper installation? If so, what should I check? Also, how long do batteries normally last in these hunter thermostats?

Question: What else should I do to ensure the system is properly maintained?

Thanks

Ricky

[Robert]

Hi Ricky,

Test RC wire to ground for 24vac and do same for RH. Do this with removed from t-stat.


Replace the Hunter t-stat with a Honeywell, White-Rodgers for best results.


Look closely at the disconnect assembly, those furnaces are notorious for the disconnect assemblies blowing fuses and melting and starting fires due to lugs and prongs getting loose due to age.


Sequencer or elements fallen down touching frame are reasons for coils staying energized.


Top toolbar, click hvac, when it turns green, click articles and see cleaning your furnace blower.


Holler if you need parts ordering info.


Thanks,
Robert

[Ricky.Glenn]

Hi Robert,

I received and replaced the sequencer. That was definitely a portion of my problem. The old sequencer fell apart in my hand.

In regards to the wiring of the thermostat. As stated previously, I am using a non programmable hunter thermostat that requires 2 AA batteries. The system has both RH and RC wires. Instructions to install the thermostat says to remove the jumper if the system has both RH and RC wires. However, without the jumper, the blower will not come on when set to heat and auto. Thus, I installed the jumper.

As you suggested, I tested the RC and RH wires to ground for 24vac and have zero volts on each. My initial thought was the transformer so I checked the primary and secondary windings, neither were open. I then checked primary to secondary and they were not short. Any suggestions?

Thanks Ricky

[Robert]

Hi Ricky,

Does the blower work with jumper installed ? Are both RC and RH wires connected to something at furnace ?

IF you have a RC and a RH wire and they are both connected at furnace and each receiving voltage, then jumper needs to be removed.

Try the RH wire only WITH jumper installed between RH and RC at t-stat.



Thanks,
Robert

[Ricky.Glenn]

Hi Robert
The blower work does work, with the thermostat fan switch set to both auto and on, with the jumper installed. The blower does not work in auto with the jumper removed.

Only the RH wire is connected to something at furnace. To the best of my recollection the RH wire goes to a small terminal board, to the moeler plug, then to the 24V side of a transformer.

The RC wire is connected to the AC unit outside.

Neither the RC nor RH wire is receiving voltage.

I tried the RH wire only WITH jumper installed between RH and RC at t-stat. RC wire removed. The blower did not come on in neither the auto or on position.

Question: Do have have further suggestions regarding why the blower only works correctly with the jumper installed?

After installing the sequencer another problem has came to light. The system does not always shut off after reaching room temperature. The relay seems to be sticking. You can hear a clicking noise coming from the relay. You can then lightly tap the relay and the system will shut off. The relay installed looks similar to the 621867 Relay on the parts section of this website.

Question: Is the 621867 Relay the correct relay for the FEH 015A? Should I order a new relay?

[Robert]

Hi,

The Fan Relay # 621867 is correct :

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/NordyneElec.html


How long have you been using that t-stat ?

Any problems before now ?

Is there an HG and HE setting on t-stat base with a slide button to place on one or the other ?

If so, where do you have it placed ?

Follow the RC wire to the end and verify where it goes and and connects at.

Also, see if you have a transformer inside the control panel in outside a/c condenser unit.


Thanks,
Robert

[Ricky.Glenn]

Robert

Thank you for the response. I will order the relay. The non OEM Honeywell R8222D relay installed is sticking.

Regarding the thermostat: I replaced the thermostat approximately 6 weeks ago. The previous thermostat was wired the same way, RC and RH jumped. The thermostat I replaced had been in use for a year. There was nothing wrong with the thermostat I replaced. Thus, I am not sure how long RC and RH have been jumped.

Regarding any problems before now: Even though I have owned the home for 17 years, I have rented it to others for the last 13 years. However, the past 6 months I kept it vacant for some serious maintenance. Thus, I was not aware of any problems until recently. The relay was replaced at some point. It has a non OEM Honeywell R8222D relay installed. The relay is sticking. So I will order one from the link you provided.

Regarding the HG and HE setting on t-stat base: It is in the HE setting.

I will find out where the RC wire connects and determine if there is a transformer inside the control panel in outside a/c condenser unit.

Thanks,
Ricky

[Robert]

Hi Ricky,

Hunter t-stats are notorious for causing these type problems and I do not favor or recommend them.

However, to show how things can go sometimes, I had to install one in our other home about 2 weeks ago due to a failure late at night and Wally World being only place open.

It is still there and working, LOL.


Anyway, IF there is an RH and RC wire and they are connected to two separate transformers, then you need to remove jumper.


IF there is just an RH or RC wire OR only one of two is connected OR there is only one transformer, THEN you jumper RH and RC at t-stat.


On SOME electric furnaces, you actually have to set that slide button to HG for furnace to work properly.

I know HG is for Gas, but try it in HG to see if that resolves it. If not, that is one more thing to rule out.

Another quirk of the Hunter t-stats I am not fond of.


Thanks,
Robert

[Ricky.Glenn]

Robert

There is an RH and RC wire, and they are connected to two separate transformers.

However, with the jumper removed, the blower will not come on when the t-stat is set to heat, fan auto, and temperature set to demand heat.

With the jumper removed, the blower will come on when the t-stat is set to heat, and fan set to on.

With the jumper removed, the blower will come on when the t-stat is set to AC, and fan set to on or auto, and temperature set to demand cool air.

I will try setting the T-stat to HG and see what happens.

The five wires at the T-stat are connected as follows:

RC- to a xfmr on the outside condenser.
RH-to a xfmr mounted on the furnace. (VIA terminal board and moeler)
Y-cooling output to a relay on the outside condenser.
G-fan to a relay mounted on the furnace. (VIA terminal board)
W-heat output- splits at the terminal board and is connected to the sequencer in two locations.

When the furnace/blower is running, there is 24 VAC on RC/RH jumped. When the furnace/blower is off, T stat installed or not, there is no voltage.

Thank you

Ricky