OK I am looking for some help
I have an older mobile home that I use as a hunting camp
its a 60's mobile hone with a more or less all flat all metal roof
like a BIG can of tuna fish LOL
any how, for the past 20 yrs or so, I have been treating the roof with some aluminum roof coating I get at my local Lowe's
BUT it seemed like it was starting to NOt work as well, as it would peel and not stick and just showed signs of not holding very well
NOW this roof has several spots where ???? it sags, thus water puddles form
this roof also has a lot of slap to it, meaning when you walk on it it flex's a LOT, and even on very windy days it will , can be heard flexing
two yrs ago, I did some looking and found a company called Ames, and they specialize in roof coating
they told me to use a rubber maximun stretch coating, due to the roof flexing and moving as it does
SO two yrs ago, I prepped the rof, scrubbed the crap out of it, get everything loose off and then added ther primer, and then did 3 or 4 coats of there product, maximun stretch
it looked great
checked it a bunch of times, and held solid
been about 4-5 months since I looked and well, yesterday, I checked it and its peeling every where water puddles
and its peeling BAD, and actually NOW trapping water under the coating, as water is NOW spreading under the coating
winter is coming so I am scrambling here to solve the issue?
I took a wire wheel to all the loose spots to get me back down to metal roof
BUT NOW not sure what to do??
I know I have to coat with something
but not sure what??
Nxt, I gather my problems are from the sags in the roof or almost like BIG dents, some are about2ft by 2 ft and will hold about an inch of water in the middle
what can I use to fill these in ro try to get the roof back to level??
was thinking about this rubber coatings again, and just pouring in a gallon or more at a time tll the area is almost level
but not sure if thats ab good idea, now temps are not getting above 60 degree's woried it will NOT cure all the way
and every morning I have a LOT of conidsation/frost(temps been dropping down to about 34 at night)
so what ever I do, it needs to be dry FAST before dark, so not to not dry or mix with the water
I know I should have looked sooner, but cannot change that now
SO suggestions please
much need help here!
Thanks
roof help
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
I think I would contact the manufacturer and get their advise. It may be a reaction to the coating under it as well as many other possibilities.
Greg
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
well due to its age, I don't think that will help much
I'm debating trying auto body Bondo, to fill in the dents , or a HD epoxy maybe??
just to try to solve the water puddling up issue's
as that seems to be the real killer
water sits for weeks or months, and the coating just gets soft from being water logged
NOT sure if either my idea's will work or not
as they might be in the same baot if water still lays on top
its more or less an age break down I fear, the truss's under the roof are sagging, and weaker now than ever, and don't think they were ever too strong!
this roof was designed to flex, from what I can tell, and that doesn't help things, as all that movement with wind and such, causes any coatings to flex, then crack, then water gets in cracks, and or then ICE in winter time
lots of cards stacked against things!
I'm debating trying auto body Bondo, to fill in the dents , or a HD epoxy maybe??
just to try to solve the water puddling up issue's
as that seems to be the real killer
water sits for weeks or months, and the coating just gets soft from being water logged
NOT sure if either my idea's will work or not
as they might be in the same baot if water still lays on top
its more or less an age break down I fear, the truss's under the roof are sagging, and weaker now than ever, and don't think they were ever too strong!
this roof was designed to flex, from what I can tell, and that doesn't help things, as all that movement with wind and such, causes any coatings to flex, then crack, then water gets in cracks, and or then ICE in winter time
lots of cards stacked against things!
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- Posts: 193
- Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 7:34 am
- Location: Norwich, CT
I use the Ame's product a lot. The Maximum Stretch is their best top coat product but it does not do well in ponding situations. I use Elastobarrier as a base coat and the Max as a top coat. Befoae coating I would clean well as you have done and either grind down rough spots or fill them as well as any gaps with their caulk product. You don't want sharp edges.
A better product for ponding situations would be Liquid Rubber from EPDM Coatings. http://www.epdmcoatings.com/ This is an actual EPDM rubber product and will hold up well (best i have found) to ponding. I have seen it last 8 years with ponding. It may still be good, I just have not been back to see that roof.
If most of your roof is in good shape, you may get by with just using the Liquid Rubber on just the ponding area. The stuff is pricey, but keep in mind you are only using one coat and not 7 like I will do with the Ame's product. I have used the rubber over elastomeric, but not the other way around, so not sure adhesion will work on your next coating. Coat the whole roof with the Liquid Rubber and you may not need another recoat. I am also referring to Liquid Rubber roof coating and not the Liquid Roof coating by the same name. They even say the second product is for mobiles and RVs. I find them both to be similar, the the Liquid Rubber coating to be thicker.
It is very critical to follow the application instructions on both of these products. Prep and application conditions will make or break these (or any) coatings.
JMHO
A better product for ponding situations would be Liquid Rubber from EPDM Coatings. http://www.epdmcoatings.com/ This is an actual EPDM rubber product and will hold up well (best i have found) to ponding. I have seen it last 8 years with ponding. It may still be good, I just have not been back to see that roof.
If most of your roof is in good shape, you may get by with just using the Liquid Rubber on just the ponding area. The stuff is pricey, but keep in mind you are only using one coat and not 7 like I will do with the Ame's product. I have used the rubber over elastomeric, but not the other way around, so not sure adhesion will work on your next coating. Coat the whole roof with the Liquid Rubber and you may not need another recoat. I am also referring to Liquid Rubber roof coating and not the Liquid Roof coating by the same name. They even say the second product is for mobiles and RVs. I find them both to be similar, the the Liquid Rubber coating to be thicker.
It is very critical to follow the application instructions on both of these products. Prep and application conditions will make or break these (or any) coatings.
JMHO
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
thanks
I did use th Ame's max stretch product
and I used there primer first
I had called them prior to buying there products, explained my deal
asked what they recommened I use, and preped and followed there direction to a T
they CLAIMED It would work fine with ponding water, as long as I used 3 coats, which I did(almost 4 to be honest, ran a hair short of the forth coat!
they TOLD me it would last close to 10 yrs!
NOW just 2 yrs later its all peeling off here and there , and every place water ponded up, its bleed thru and went under the coating
making a royal pain in the butt now to corect
and now, I think only way I can correct will be to completely remove all the MAX stretch coating
and THATS a BIG project, and a lot of time behind a wire wheel
when I did it 2 yrs ago, I looked and contacted them, and did everything they said to do
NOW they don't want to offer any help, but to sell me mroe of there products?
I am DONE With them and there stuff!
worked my ass off prepping last time and for just 2 yrs, heck not even two yrs!
the other stuff
sounds like what I should have done the first time LOL
its NOW too cold to do anything, but try and put a band aid on it till next yr!
BUT next spring I can see a large project in removing all the coatings on this roof and doing it again with something better!
just worried about what that actually is??
I did use th Ame's max stretch product
and I used there primer first
I had called them prior to buying there products, explained my deal
asked what they recommened I use, and preped and followed there direction to a T
they CLAIMED It would work fine with ponding water, as long as I used 3 coats, which I did(almost 4 to be honest, ran a hair short of the forth coat!
they TOLD me it would last close to 10 yrs!
NOW just 2 yrs later its all peeling off here and there , and every place water ponded up, its bleed thru and went under the coating
making a royal pain in the butt now to corect
and now, I think only way I can correct will be to completely remove all the MAX stretch coating
and THATS a BIG project, and a lot of time behind a wire wheel
when I did it 2 yrs ago, I looked and contacted them, and did everything they said to do
NOW they don't want to offer any help, but to sell me mroe of there products?
I am DONE With them and there stuff!
worked my ass off prepping last time and for just 2 yrs, heck not even two yrs!
the other stuff
sounds like what I should have done the first time LOL
its NOW too cold to do anything, but try and put a band aid on it till next yr!
BUT next spring I can see a large project in removing all the coatings on this roof and doing it again with something better!
just worried about what that actually is??
The gray Elastomeric from Ame's will hold up to ponding water but I don't think it would last as long as Liquid Rubber. You might get by doing just the ponding areas. Overall, I have found Liquid Rubber to last longer. It is just a more expensive per gallon but actually cheaper per sq ft considering the number of coatings.
You do have consider the surface you are applying the product to. Liquid Rubber is not as friendly over old asphalt based products. Neither product is friendly over fresh / semi fresh asphalt based coatings.
You do have consider the surface you are applying the product to. Liquid Rubber is not as friendly over old asphalt based products. Neither product is friendly over fresh / semi fresh asphalt based coatings.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
thanks again, but part of my problem is the roof is so flexiable and moves so much, so poding water can be almost any where at tinmes, but there are several spots where it can be up to say an inch deep or so
its too cold now for anything, and with just a few hrs a day of sun, IF that, and heavy condinsation and frost off and on every day
I tried a few coatings of what Lowe's had, and 3 times now, I put it on, come morning ponding water from dew/condinsation/frost, and its peeled right off
so I guess I am screwed till next yr and warmer weather
I have NO asphalt products on it, and been trying to stay away, as they are to me a LOT harder to remove
I guess come next spring/summer I will need to wire wheel the whole dam roof, NOT looking forward to that either
and go with something and go extra heavy on what every I do too!
as every 2 yrs I cannot be doing this
just not cost or time effective!
if it didn't have so many add on rooms I would just build a roof over it, but thats not a real option either due to the add on"s
so if anyone has a better coating they know of and KNWO It can last yrs, please add here and I will do some looking at them
its too cold now for anything, and with just a few hrs a day of sun, IF that, and heavy condinsation and frost off and on every day
I tried a few coatings of what Lowe's had, and 3 times now, I put it on, come morning ponding water from dew/condinsation/frost, and its peeled right off
so I guess I am screwed till next yr and warmer weather
I have NO asphalt products on it, and been trying to stay away, as they are to me a LOT harder to remove
I guess come next spring/summer I will need to wire wheel the whole dam roof, NOT looking forward to that either
and go with something and go extra heavy on what every I do too!
as every 2 yrs I cannot be doing this
just not cost or time effective!
if it didn't have so many add on rooms I would just build a roof over it, but thats not a real option either due to the add on"s
so if anyone has a better coating they know of and KNWO It can last yrs, please add here and I will do some looking at them
I have coated roofs for 28 years and have probably experimented with a dozen products. While there may be similar products, I don't know if there is a better coating that Liquid Rubber EPDM coating. JMO.
If your roof is more flexible than any I have seen (which I wouldn't know), then I would say you have an exceptional problem. There is a local company in my area that will cover an existing roof with 7/16 sheathing and apply an aluminum film torchdown like RUBEROID® ULTRACLAD® SBS Foil-Faced Membrane, to the sheathing. Add-on rooms are pretty common in roofing.
Spray foam is usually a good professional alternative to coatings, but I would not suggest it for a roof with a lot of loose metal. The same could be said for single-ply rubber sheet roofs. They may work with a sheathing substrate, but I am not sure if that would withstand a building permit process.
If your roof is more flexible than any I have seen (which I wouldn't know), then I would say you have an exceptional problem. There is a local company in my area that will cover an existing roof with 7/16 sheathing and apply an aluminum film torchdown like RUBEROID® ULTRACLAD® SBS Foil-Faced Membrane, to the sheathing. Add-on rooms are pretty common in roofing.
Spray foam is usually a good professional alternative to coatings, but I would not suggest it for a roof with a lot of loose metal. The same could be said for single-ply rubber sheet roofs. They may work with a sheathing substrate, but I am not sure if that would withstand a building permit process.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
OK I again appreciate all your info and take your experience to heart, as I am sure its way more than what I have
BUT I still am not sure maybe I am explaining this roof correctly
this roof moves like waves on a lake every time the wind blows, its very flexible , due to I THINK< its age, and the fact its lost a lot of supports that used to hold it tighter and , in the condition/shape it was designed for
as this roof was designed as far as I can tell with a rounded design, meaning the roof at one time, had a rounded like top from side to side with the center being higher than the rest
BUT at the same time, the one end, say 20 ft from one end had a rise to it, about 20 inches taller than the rest, with a rise up and then a slope down to the other end
over the yrs the supports under this roof(I have NO way to get to them) have either broke some, or just sagged from yrs of snow and just age, weakening them
and then again tree branches again and who know's what has fallen on it and dented and weaken the supports and the roof itself, making dents her and there, and NOW created ponding area's for water
then before me owning it, they added add on additions, one on each end in the back, and one towards the middle in the front
these add on's
were build by someone that had NO idea how to build anything
as they were NOT built to code, or normal specs, NOTHING is square or level, or???
the add on's, there roofs meet the trailer roof, one end can be either flush with the roof, or a few inches lower, , and these roofs have almost zero pitch
It took, me yrs to get them to stop leaking, with a few dozen different things
I would have loved to build a roof over this whole thing, but the add on's just don't make that a feasable cost deal
, nor do I know how anyone would be able to add sheathing to it, OR of this whole thing would hold the weight of it?
as with the way this roof feels when I walk on it, I don't think it would hold a lot of extra weight
I am NOT sure if I am explaining this right, so here are a few pictures of it all
Maybe they will help explain it a little better
I again, appreciate the idea's suggestions/opinions
as this isn't going to get started on a fix till next spring/summer
so I have lots of time
BUT I still am not sure maybe I am explaining this roof correctly
this roof moves like waves on a lake every time the wind blows, its very flexible , due to I THINK< its age, and the fact its lost a lot of supports that used to hold it tighter and , in the condition/shape it was designed for
as this roof was designed as far as I can tell with a rounded design, meaning the roof at one time, had a rounded like top from side to side with the center being higher than the rest
BUT at the same time, the one end, say 20 ft from one end had a rise to it, about 20 inches taller than the rest, with a rise up and then a slope down to the other end
over the yrs the supports under this roof(I have NO way to get to them) have either broke some, or just sagged from yrs of snow and just age, weakening them
and then again tree branches again and who know's what has fallen on it and dented and weaken the supports and the roof itself, making dents her and there, and NOW created ponding area's for water
then before me owning it, they added add on additions, one on each end in the back, and one towards the middle in the front
these add on's
were build by someone that had NO idea how to build anything
as they were NOT built to code, or normal specs, NOTHING is square or level, or???
the add on's, there roofs meet the trailer roof, one end can be either flush with the roof, or a few inches lower, , and these roofs have almost zero pitch
It took, me yrs to get them to stop leaking, with a few dozen different things
I would have loved to build a roof over this whole thing, but the add on's just don't make that a feasable cost deal
, nor do I know how anyone would be able to add sheathing to it, OR of this whole thing would hold the weight of it?
as with the way this roof feels when I walk on it, I don't think it would hold a lot of extra weight
I am NOT sure if I am explaining this right, so here are a few pictures of it all
Maybe they will help explain it a little better
I again, appreciate the idea's suggestions/opinions
as this isn't going to get started on a fix till next spring/summer
so I have lots of time
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