Glue on all studs?? Ugh!

[AlM]

Hi folks -

While I believe Shae (Shaeness) has asked a few questions, this is my first so let me say two things before I ask: 1) We already appreciate the wealth of information here... After finding this site I spent late nights reading almost every post - great information!!! 2) We've already ordered and received the repair book - more great information!!

So, we have a 2001 Sweetwater, 28x70 that we're doing a total renovation on. Yes, it almost seems too new to need this - but - it really needed it!!

My first question: We've removed almost all the drywall. I've never before seen what we found below it: looks like liquid nails/some kind of liquid glue on all studs - every one of them - and it's a nightmare. So, knowing it's amost impossible to remove the glue, what is going to occur when we sheetrock over it? I can picture wavy walls... Ugh.... Suggestions?

You can see the glue on the studs in our blog here: http://www.alandshae.blogspot.com --- just look at the first "day 3" picture.

I won't even talk about the 4000 staples and nails on each stud.... It's crazy.

Thanks!

Al (and Shae) Miller

[Dean3]

That's a lot of glue,no mistake there.

You could try a wood chisel,either with a hammer or held and pushed. With chisel work it is much about using the angle of the blade so holding the handle at the correct angle from the surface is important,then use whatever force works best on that certain material. Also you might need to sharpen it several times,but,sometimes too sharp will cause more gouging,experiment to see what works. Practice in less important areas 1st,when you get good then do areas that have to be better,like where cabinets and such have to lay against flat walls.

It looks like you might want to get more chisels and friends/family that can learn to use them. The wider the chisel the less chance of running it right off the stud,but,wider chisels cost more.

You might be able to use an electric chisel to speed things up,ask at the local rental store,tell them your project and get their recommendation of chisel and bits for the job. Some folks like to rent tools on a Saturday Noon then return 1st thing Monday morning,this means you can use it all day Sunday and,if lucky,only pay for the half-day Saturday. Again,the angle the tool is used at is very important.

I suppose some sort of draw knife might work from near the top going down the stud,this would also take practice and possibly plenty of sharpening.

You could just do the most important walls and glue over the rest,that depends on your standards I suppose. When I glue drywall I screw the perimeter (butt joints too) and use only enough screws in the field to hold it tight enough so the glue makes contact.

Dean

[Greg]

Hi & welcome. Since you have everything open and dust is not much of an issue I would use a disc sander with course discs and a light touch I think it will be the fastest way to remove that much glue. A chisel will work also but with that much....

Now is the time to check & upgrade the Electrical & plumbing also. Check the electrical boxes, if you do not have screw type connectors on the outlets & switches now is the time to upgrade them. If the electrical boxes are not mounted to the studs change then also, the drywall mounted boxes are nothing but trouble.

Plumbing, check for any problems, ADD SHUTOFF VALVES, when you have a problem you will be glad you did. Don't forget to make access panels when you put the new rock up. Greg

[JD]

Hi Al and welcome to the forum,

I often use my Dremel Multi-tool. They cost under a hundred bucks and it is a very handy tool. It comes with a caulk/glue removal blade, but I find that that works well for caulk and not so much for the hard type glue used on floors and walls. I will use the cutting blade and it usually works pretty good. Sometimes the harder glue just starts popping off when hit with the vibrating blade.

Right after the Dremel Multi-Tool came out, someone from this forum got one and posted about it. I went out that day and got one. It is a little cutie tool, but it has come on handy many times. I will even use it on removing subfloors in corners and hard to reach places. I will also use it near spooky close electric wire and plumbing where my sawzall is too much of a brute.

But there are times when the Dremel is just not strong enough to do big jobs of removing glue and I will resort to the chisel. What I found that helps me is I will put diagonal slices in the glue (in both directions) with a utility knife making sure to cut in the full thickness of the glue. The chisel work goes a lot faster for me when I do that.

This is a method I use when mortising hinges to doors and jambs. I screw the hinge where I would like it to go. Cut a deep line using the hinge as a template. Then I remove the hinge, and put in diagonal cuts in the hinge area with the utility blade, being sure to keep the cuts the right (approximate) depth. Chiseling out the hinge area is easy after that and I don't end up with a oops on the outside of the hinge.

JD

[AlM]

Dean/JD/Greg -

We can't thank you enough for responding. Well, I guess just leaving it there isn't an option...

Shae, I know you're going to read this - and let me say this publically: I will stop making fun of how much you said you wanted that Dremel tool after watching the Home Depot commercials.... And, well, it IS your birthday on Friday.... Sooooooooo...............

I think we try a combination of all three... Grider, chisel, and Shae's birthday present.

Thanks guys - I knew it was trouble from the first sheetrock panel removed... I've never seen glue used on sheetrock before - and hope to never see it again!

Al (and Shae, once she reads this!)

[shaeness]

[JD]

Check out the Craftsman and other makes of this type of tool. I like my Dremel just fine and it works without problems but I wish it had a metal blade. I am not big on Craftsman construction tools, but with something like this, I doubt it makes much difference. I think the Craftsman has more power and an easier blade changing process. Not sure about that though.

Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday Happy Birthday, da dee da da dee da

JD

[JD]

OH, and leaving the glue there is an option. It looks like they just ran a squigley bead down the studs, which should leave plenty of bare stud for more glue. The new glue should just fill the voids left by the old glue. When the old sheetrock was fastened to the studs, they should have flattened out pretty uniformly.

Is this the best way to install new sheetrock? Maybe not. But weighing costs, efforts and results, I would think that leaving the glue or most of it might be an option. JMO

JD

[shaeness]

Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday Happy Birthday, da dee da da dee da

Haha, thank you! I'm looking forward to the assortment of power tools I'll surely be opening Friday.