replacement of MH kitchen water line...

apageor2 · Tue Dec 21, 2010 7:57 pm

I have a question for persons who are familiar with this task. More importantly, persons who know of MHs in the 60-70s time period.

What I am experiencing at this time is the kitchen sink pipe line that is currently running cold water however it is not running hot water. The capability of doing that is almost impossible at this time. For example, I can obtain hot water from the kitchen faucet provided 1) the faucet is turned all the way to the left and it is an extremely slow trickle that comes out or 2) I go into the bathroom and use those faucets (either the sink or the bathtub) either which I can obtain hot water at full force.

So, that brings me to logically think there is a clog in the main line (hot water line) somewhere that is causing this issue. Now, my question is how can I break this clog as I have tried everything and nothing is working to release the hot water so it is an even flow again. My only thought is the pipes are totally corroded and need to be replaced however since I do not know what to look for it is very difficult to determine where to begin searching.

I can explain more should it be needed. The constant lugging of hot water from the bathroom to the kitchen to do dishes is extremely annoying on my back and it is becoming a large hassle. I appreciate any help on this matter.

Regards,
Sue

Greg · Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:32 pm

Sue, Hi & welcome. Water line restrictions are one of the most frustrating repairs. I would start at the faucet, it may have a valve problem. The easiest way to check is to shut the water off & drain off the pressure. Disconnect the hot water line from the faucet and put it in a bucket. Have someone turn the water back on & check the flow.

Chase it from there. If you have low flow go backwards, if you have good flow go towards the faucet.

We had one person here that chased it back until he found a marble in a connection. So as I said it can be very frustrating. Greg

JD · Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:45 pm

Just breaking a clog in an incoming water supply might not be a good idea. That will leave everything causing the problem in the system. I would temporarily hook the incoming cold water to the hot water line at the water heater to see if it is the heater or the line. This would be easy to do with a couple of SharkBite fittings, a short length of pex and probably 1-2 reducing couplers. If there are threaded fittings available in the WH compartment, you could get buy with a dishwasher supply line and 1 galv reducer.

Know that the water heater may want to back-drain through the broken connection if it is before the water heater, i.e. where the 3/4" pipe T's to feed the water heater and to feed thew cold water supply to the house. Be ready to direct the water and not get scalded or even wet.

If the clog is in the line, it is simple to find by checking each water fixture in order, from the water heater.

apageor2 · Wed Dec 22, 2010 6:48 pm

Okay, I think I understand this. Something that is being considered about the issue is the clog is stuck right in the middle the question is where. When I say middle I am referring to between the bathroom and before the kitchen. As I said, the flow of hot water is very low if not trickle like in the kitchen yet I can get full flow in the bathroom. That would bring me to believe that there is something midway causing the blockage of a corroded pipe.

This brings up another question. How is it that I can take care of this without spending a lot of funds because of the trailer age? I have been reading a lot about MH's that are 30 plus years or more old and it does bring a large question to mind on the funds that I will need to spend to repair the damage that has been done. One final question, are the type of parts being suggested to me things that I can pick up from places like Home Depot?

Oh, and since this is new to me if you could please be so kind in explaining things clearly so a beginner of the DIY would understand especially one that is new to the plumbing world. =) Much appreciated guys! =) Everyone is a huge asset and I will be checking back again very soon for an update response.

Greg · Wed Dec 22, 2010 8:27 pm

Sue, The age of the home really does not have much to do with it. I have seen 5 yr. old homes that are trash, and I live next door to a home that is almost 50 and still in good shape.

I would do the simple things first, as I said make sure of where the problem is. I would check the faucet first, and it really is the easiest thing to check first.
Greg

apageor2 · Wed Dec 22, 2010 9:41 pm

I'm fairly certain it isn't the faucet. My husband knows more about MH maintenance and he even pointed out the faucet is working on its own. At any rate, just started showing flurries and it's supposed to change over to snow for the next two days *sigh*

1987Commodore · Thu Dec 23, 2010 1:08 am

I would think the problem would most likely be in either the hot water shutoff valve beneath the sink (if your home is so equipped,) or in the hot water valve in the faucet. It would seem to me that having the pipe itself clog would be a very unusual occurrence.

apageor2 · Thu Dec 23, 2010 2:01 am

ok.. I will look at that further. It sounds very odd even though I am not getting any hot water coming from it but a trickle. If you can visualize standing in front of the sink and having to turn hot (left) cold (right) I need to turn it all the way to the left just for the trickle of the hot water. Too far and it physically stops. I just discovered that tonight about the too far bit. Unsure if that means anything but never the less. Perhaps it's time for a visit to Home Depot and a replacement faucet first. Hate to do it but if we have to we have to. Will keep you posted.

Greg · Thu Dec 23, 2010 6:15 pm

I would not rush out and buy a faucet until you make sure there is flow to the faucet. As I said that is the easiest point to start at. If you have a good flow the faucet is to blame, if not work back towards the next faucet. Greg

apageor2 · Thu Dec 23, 2010 6:30 pm

To respond to an above reply.. the switching of the hot and cold water has already been done. Another factor that needs to be taken into consideration is the fact we are dealing with calcified water (AKA hard water) so with that being said it has already been considered that can be one of the problems that is causing the issue of the blockage.

As I said, the flow is coming out of the faucet itself for hot water regardless. The blockage is coming from somewhere between after the T and before the hot water shut off valve.

Greg · Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:09 pm

OK so you switched the Hot & cold lines at the faucet and the cold water side of the faucet now had the low flow? If that is the case then you are correct in the blockage is in the line. time to either run a new line (do yourself a favor and use PEX) or take the old line apart until you find the blockage.

Take advantage and add shutoff valves. Use either brass or stainless gate or ball valves. Stay away from plastic since they tend to fail when you need them most. Greg

apageor2 · Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:31 pm

take line apart and it's going to keep getting worse...calcium build up so i'm not sure what we're going to be looking at. The connection right at the sink is holding together because it is so calcified at this point. As for using plastic, that would be a negative since it's copper line running through. A thought did come about how to deal with this calcification issue because that seems to be the major culprit that has caused the problem from the get go. Any ideas on what can be better at maintaining hard water and I'm all for opinions.
I would assume the type of metal you have mentioned will handle hard water long term without breaking my purse strings?

Appreciate everyone's patience with me while I go through this trouble shooting. -Sue

Greg · Thu Dec 23, 2010 10:11 pm

Any way you look at it the line will need to be replaced if it's full of lime. there are many adapters for PEX. Copper / PEX CPVC/PEX Iron(NPT) / PEX so really there is no reason not to switch.

PEX is about the easiest to work with, But I would recommend using crimps over the push lock type connectors.

No problem with patience, we are here to help. Greg

HouseMedic · Thu Dec 23, 2010 11:18 pm

It is most likely that your water line under the floor is galvanized pipe. This is probably clogged with rust and calcium. The only way that you will be able to fix it is to replace that section of pipe. If you have that much calcification around your valve by the sink then you are most likely going to end up with a leak there sooner or later anyway so you would be better off replacing that part of the pipe also.

Ron

joedirt63 · Sun Dec 26, 2010 8:47 am

pex is the way to go . it's great,like a high pressure high temp garden hose you can run in the house,plus it comes in red and blue and white, i would start at the bathroom,andreplace both hot and cold,with shut off's at the kitchen faucets. i know it's the hot with the issue,but as long as your there might as well upgrade both.i did that with my 94 astro, it had quest,with crimped and it started leaking,almost all at once. they used quest with copper elbows and splices ,corrosion and splits are what i found. p.s. i crimped the lines under the house but retained all the shark bite shut off's, i know mixed opinions of shark bites or slide on ,but it's been 3 years and still good, even after disconnecting and reinstall on diffrent lines.